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The second day of Women’s Arab Fashion Week – Couture – Spring Summer 2022 kick-off with the renowned Indonesian label HIAN TJEN, Russian HUMARIFF, British label LULU LIU, Polish label DOROTA GOLDPOINT, and Dubai based MICHAEL CINCO.

Hian Tjen is a master of his craft. Hian Tjen couture collections Spring-Summer 2022

Magical, Layers, and Euphoric are the keywords of the couture collections for spring 2022. Diversity, equality and life cycle is the headline, featuring Caroline Labouchere and the Council’s Curvy Ambassador, Ameni Esseibi. Emirati, Lebanese, Tunisian and Sudanese female models walked the runway.


Hian Tjen is an ESMOD graduate, who created his brand and managed to carve a niche in the market for making elaborate detail-oriented pieces that are imaginative and dreamlike; sheer fabrics melded with classic Asian inspired prints, and rich deep colorways. The collection is imbued in atmosphere of Alexander McQueen's ethnic inspired couture shows for Givenchy in Paris in the late 90s.

As expected, Hian Tjen has triumphed in creating Haute Couture; where his culture was heavily represented, and with great impact; from the complex and intricately designed beading, to the conversational prints. Two-piece swimsuits, and dresses featured landscape or miniature rural scenes. Spring took on a different element as gowns in soft sheer blue fabric featured true jungle imagery with animals, and creatively drawn foliage. His green embroidered dress gave the illusion of a two-piece flowing set. The placement of the waist, and sheer fabric was truly inventive.

Hian also had Asian inspired prints on light quilted fabrics, and blazers in traditional and none-traditional silhouettes. The pieces with the feathered trim are also inspiring, especially against the darker shades of black and deep blue. Animal prints had a fun twist too; they were easily recognizable, but ingeniously altered. His most sultry couture gown was constructed of red draped sateen, and sheer fabric with hand prints strategically covering the bust. The sheer fabric he placed his patterns on are liken to tattoos on the skin. The show closer was even more

impressive. The model wore a marvelous gold headdress, feathered floor-length coverall, and multicolored earth toned gown.

It was a great finish and definitely made a mark for Hian Tjen (above) this Spring/Summer 2022.

LULU LIU Couture - award-winning brand

Graduating from the esteemed London College of fashion, and specializing in Haute Couture Embroidery from Ecole Lesage Paris, Lulu Liu (Lulu Yilu) is a figure in the fashion couture scene.

Her numerous awards have been garnered through her hard work, and pursuit of being the very best designer in her own right. Her collections are known for its modern silhouettes, brilliant colors, and artistic conservative styles.

Lulu Liu Couture Spring 2022 collection presented in Dubai

Gathered ruffles, with feathered details, and sparkling elements were expressed delicately throughout the brand’s Spring 2022 collection. Patterns were likened to paint splashed. The opening couture piece featured a full volume coat-like shawl, in deep blue tone. The pink gown underneath it was a great shade to bring out the details of the shawl.

LuLu’s A-line dress showed how a garment piece could also share the traits of an accessory.

The lovely rose color with gold beading gave the classic black dress a modern touch. The peplum style dresses also had touches of Spring’s most popular trends; ruffled sleeves, and strapless design. The color coordination was excellent in this collection. Every item had an illuminating effect. The cocktail dresses also had different placement of the ruffles: on the bust or around the waist.

Feathered trims are also shown. There is even a gown that is covered in white feathers.

It was a nice twist to see a lace couture garment in this collection; combined with silvery pants. Orange was a color also featured in the LuLu Couture collection; with paint splashed in a contrasting green shade. This particular gown had an interesting design; the added cummerbund-like piece was layered on the bust, and from the back; gave the gown structure.

Of course, the closing gown was immaculately poised; various sized ruffles, gather-bunched fine cloth, and sheer black fabric encapsulating it.

It was full bloom in white, cream, and off-white. LuLu brought such a unique perspective to Haute Couture this Spring 2022. She is petite, but a hugely talented designer.


Dorota Goldpoint is an expressive Polish fashion designer, with goals to drape women in luxurious goods they will cherish forever. She is a staple in couture fashion. Her gowns are sewn from natural textiles of silk, satin, crepe, chiffon, and organza; just to mention a few. Dorota dresses

celebrities in her native country too, like First Lady of the Republic Agata Kornhauser-Duda. She is a staple in couture fashion.

One knew right away what to anticipate in Dorata Goldpoints Haute Couture Collection. From the start, the wave of classic and timeless glamour ensued. The cuts were very conservative, with vintage floral prints, and soft pink hues. Collared gowns, and gold embroidered details on the shoulders also gave that classic vintage appeal. There was also fur featured, and helped the collection stay consistent with Haute Couture. The gold gown, with its large flounced sleeves was also stunning. The high-lo style of a few gowns in the collection was an unexpected. That silhouette is retro, and highlighted the trends of the season. The hat accessories are remarkable too; top hat with lace and a bumper style; both with floral elements.

As the collection went on, the high-lo style evolved into single satin layered petal-like fabrics. Capes and lengthy shawls were also featured, and on soft pinkish lavender hues. It was a nice ease into the gowns with the brighter shade of fuchsia pink. Once again, fur made its presence on the runway in pink trim. The vintage style of the entire collection is versatile and first-class. It’s a sophisticated and lavish conservative look. Gold’s symbolic reference to quality, can be found in this collection. Dorota Goldpoint has a way of introducing the most timeless styles back into the fold, thereby exposing the new class of Haute Couture enthusiast to relate-able modest fashion.

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