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Milano Fashion Week -

This is a collection that revels in the unsung beauty of dressing as we see it pass by on our streets – clothes seen in situ. Boxy suiting and dry wool peacoats elicit the spirit of city commuters, their FinancialDistrict-severity counterposed by campily exaggerated peak lapels, the moodily adolescent, shrugged cut of the shoulder, and boomerang-slung sleeves.

There is little here in MM6 Maison Margiela’s Autumn/Winter 2022 collection that you aren’t already familiar with; that you don’t already know and love.

The collection is presented in an atmosphere that brings its all-purpose attitude into relief. In a dark space perfumed by the scent of the woods, and lit up by torchlight, the show’s ephemeral set evokes the cosiness of an evening spent around a campfire with friends. In many respects, this season marks a turn in the life cycle, a moment to both reflect upon its idiosyncratic design perspective, and to celebrate it with aplomb.

Just as you’d see in real life, these cool, dusky silhouettes are styled with brazen-hued sneakers, the product of a collaboration with Salomon, the French outdoor sports apparel label whose function-first footwear takes to urban streets as naturally as to mountain trails. The brand’s most iconic pieces have been reimagined through MM6 Maison Margiela’s distinct lens. Lug-sole trail-running shoes in flame red and powder pink echo MM6’s mainstay ‘6’ heel ankle boot, with a pronounced block heel, a high top and exposed lacing. Elsewhere, a low-top model is fitted with a fluorescent gaiter, allowing for a more conventional sneaker silhouette. – Maison Margiela 163 Rue Saint Maur 75011 Paris phone: +33 1 44 53 63 03 –

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