Copenhagen, this year's World Capital of Architecture, rocks when it comes to fashion too. The Scandinavian aesthetics meets rock 'n' roll in a variety of edgy styles and innovative proposals by the brands like FINE CHAOS, newly established in Copenhagen, but getting a lot of international attention. This August FINE CHAOS hosted an immersive show and the official 'closing party' of CPHFW.
By Nermin A.
In this interview with Marc C. Møllerskov the Creative Director for FINE CHAOS, it became evident how strongly he believes in taking the right choices in everything they do. From product, people, and Planet are all respected equally and preferably be adding value in the world instead of using unnecessary resources. This is the key ingredient to their show, collections, employees as well as their suppliers - and they strive to make a positive impact in all communities which they meet on their journey. The brand does this by juggling the balance between "FINE" and "CHAOS," revealing the harmony between the two facets of its one universe.
Danish popstar of Infernal, Lina Rafn on catwalk for FINE CHAOS. All images: Andrea Brandt, unless otherwise stated.
FINE CHAOS SS24. Image: MorzaStudio.
A potential hyper-futuristic, post-apocalyptic world taking place in 2072 is presented in the SS24 collection. In this scenario, the earth's natural resources are limited, and technology has transformed everything from nature to infrastructure to every fiber in the human body. This idea creates a contradiction between the clothing in the collection, which aims to show off the merging of nature and hyper-futurism yet is shown to be in direct opposition to one another. Finale of the show is full ‘Zipper’ look - a jacket only purely of heavy metal zippers, and trousers which are made of 50% wool and 50% zippers going down the legs of the trousers, almost ‘dragging’ the wearer down - creating an aggressive, brave and vulnerable look through the zippers’ unevenness. This is where the couture selection of FINE CHAOS takes form - as a form of art.
The socially critical elements of this collection are showcased through numerous different artworks portraying the wearer in different social classes.
You founded FINE CHAOS with Co-Founder Ludvig Isaksen, How did this collaboration come about?
Marc C. Møllerskov: Actually, we’re six co-Founders, who started as friends and then became partners along the way. Ludvig and I met over coffee, which I was seconds from denying, which I’m happy I didn’t, haha. But we all have our own different fields of expertise, so we complement each other well in that regard.
Sustainability is not just about production, but about the whole value chain, from the fibre, to the manufacturer, to the end consumer. By being open about the challenges and constantly having conversations with the community surrounding the brand, we get closer every day. - Marc C. Møllerskov Creative Director for FINE CHAOS
What is the primary goal of the FINE CHAOS brand and its mission?
To create meaningful concepts, relations, and contribute to a better industry overall.
The industry lacks inclusivity, which is easily spotted at the runway shows, where only the ‘right’ people get to attend and experience them. And our clothing needs to serve a bigger purpose then ‘just’ being clothing, as we already have enough clothing on the planet. Therefore, all garments must have identity and quality, else it shouldn’t exist.
The creative director Marc C. Møllerskov. By embracing the duality of the upcoming generation—one in which revolt and the art of expression collide—FINE CHAOS
How does a brand like yours manage to stay true to its vision and values, and reach its sustainable goals?
Through transparency and honesty. No clothing brand can be sustainable, so it is about how to be more ‘sustainable’ (which is a word I personally hate, as its meaning has been lost in all the greenwashing by the bigger companies). Sustainability is not just about production, but about the whole value chain, from the fibre, to the manufacturer, to the end consumer. By being open about the challenges and constantly having conversations with the community surrounding the brand, we get closer every day.
What difficulties does a new-founded company face?
All sorts of difficulties, it is by no means easy. You need to have stable manufacturing, which is hard because you only produce in small quantities, the sampling process is time-consuming and costly, and there’s always a big mistake as the manufacturer needs to learn who you are as a designer. The sales are challenging, as you really need to convince the stores about investing in and making a change with your brand, as you’re not as big as a Balenciaga for example. But these are also the types of challenges that push you and make you stay motivated every day.
In partnership with Danish artists and friends of the brand, you unveiled the spring/summer 2024 collection in a novel immersive format. Also, tell us about the video that you created for the show?
We created a short movie that is filmed at the same location as the runway, so the promo felt relatable to the people seeing the show the day after its release.
The short movie was created by Hysteriget, and had Emil Baadsgaard/USSEL starring as the main actor, who is a close friend of mine from where I grew up. (I’m from the Southern part of Jutland).
The movie reflected the theme of the collection, a post-apocalyptic and hyper-futuristic world, which serves as a critique of where we’re headed as a human species. It embraces how we as humans try to escape what is human-made and how we get ‘blinded’ by events that happen in the process of escaping.
As the worlds of art and fashion more closely converge, how can an artist assist a creative director in conveying his vision?
I wouldn’t say artists only assist, but they become a part of the process and by doing so, bring their identity and interpretation of the overall theme, which makes the vision even more diverse. That is the aim—to always create deeply layered storytelling seen through multiple lenses, if that makes sense.
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