Gaurav Gupta's Indian vision of the infinite future
Indian fashion designer and artist, Gaurav Gupta, who graduated from Central Saint Martins makes his official debut during Paris Haute Couture Week, aptly presented at the Indian Republic Day, 26th January. India is present in his collection in many ways, and the designer often explores themes of surrealism and fundamentally inspired by Indian history and rich tradition. By fusing traditional methods of building and adornment with his vision of the future, he masterfully narrates the concept of infinity in his spring-summer 2023 couture collection. His fascination with the ancient Egyptian civilisations, and how it explorations on time and metaphysics is also interpreted in elaborate embroideries.
Noting the Sanskrit term for zero, shunya (Śūnyatā, शून्यता), which was developed in India, as the first modern equivalent of numeral zero, by Hindu astronomer and mathematician Brahmagupta in 628. This revolutionary discovery and the possibility of advance studies of space and time also inspires Gupta's first official runway show during Paris Haute Couture Week, "I wanted to delve more deeply into our mental landscape to develop an idea that is subliminal" the designer said. His sculptural draping forms in indigo electric blue in satins, chiffons, organzas represents a sense of futurism of dressing in a way that was absent in other shows in Paris.
This look already appeared with great success on the red-carpet in America. Look 34
Gold cloud ruffle gown with melting crystals. All images courtesy of Gaurav Gupta
Gold cloud ruffle gown with melting crystals.
Look 4 Twin reflection sculpture dress in crystal embroidery with embroidered ankle boots.
"I have tried to explore the movement possibilities between zero and infinity with tangents of mythology, fantasy and surrealism. Frozen strokes of dancing wind in infinite forms are sculpted in gold and silver handwoven tissue–the set of twin dresses in silver are an embodiment of this" Gaurav Gupta
Black snake web suit with snake ankle boots.
The collection unites elemental dresses in black and nude strategically revealing the form in its pristine state. Meteoric light embroideries emulate melting lava or deep waves of a very dark ocean. There is a snake dress slithering and intertwining all through the body. The snakes, inspired by the kundalini, softly meander on the body in hand-embroidered waves. Their form is made luminous with black and purple rainbow and blue iridescent glass beads. There are goth dresses in black leather-like jersey and an acid trip neon yellow.
Taking inspiration from past periods, like the late Baroque and Empire style, Aelis couture collection proposes modern versions that are constructed after what designer calls Re-Gener-Action. Using a lot of strong colours mixed with pastels throughout the collection Aelis sets the contemporary mood to its looks made of long gowns often with asymmetrical one shoulder. The collection is filled with alluring looks that evoke passion of the summer nights.
ROBERT WUN debuts at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week
This Paris debut, which concluded Paris Fashion Week, was inspired by one of our most basic emotions: fear. The designer, however, approaches fear from a different angle that transforms this ominous feeling into parody thanks to impeccibel couture craftmanship and handwork as he creates whimsical interpretations of our worst fears, such as getting red wine on your white dress and getting wet in your favorite ensemble.
Robert Wun Haute Cuture. All images courtesy of Robert Wun.
Wun explains how every emotions, felt from the past few months are encapsulated into the designs trough use of haute couture techniques and handcraft, as Robert Wun states, "We wanted to tell a personal story, at this very first physical showcase of the brand’s history."
"An image keep lingering in my mind when I was designing this collection. It was a picture of technicians all dressed in white coats with gloves on in an atelier, holding their breaths while handling the garments delicately. This scene captured the fear of damaging, staining or breaking the precious work. This image has deeply resonated with my feelings at the time and instated questions I have had for myself." Robert Wun
These incidents can turn to be beautiful per se. It is important time stamp of the brand’s journey, and the designer stops up to ask essential question, “What is a Haute Couture collection of the time? Who am I as a designer? Am I good enough?” Wun's debut collection at the Paris fashion week undoubtedly confirms his talent and sense for humor that fashion needs now more than ever. with his debut in paris Robert Wun closed the Paris shows with a lot positive way of looking at getting your left foot out of the bed.
Born in Hong Kong, Robert Wung studied fashion in London, where he cultivated his style inspired by both East and West. As a student, he developed an affinity for the avant-garde, and later incorporated this into his own designs. Known for his fusions of simplicity, sophistication and creativity, Robert’s work is both admired and sought after by celebrities, models, and fashion enthusiasts alike.
Wun takes his cues from the elements and processes around him, creating garments that exemplify his impressions of the natural world. A particular signature of Robert’s work are his intricate details, which take each piece of clothing to the next level. His designs are renowned for their high-quality workmanship and modern look. Every collection he presents is a spectacle that captures the imagination of all its viewers. Robert Wun presents a timeless style that transcends trends and continues to be appreciated by the fashion elite around the world.
Confronting those self-doubts is the beginning of the creative process, turning what we fear most into the inspiration itself. I started looking into fashion accidents and the uncomfortable truth in self-esteem. Elements like Broken heels, plastic surgery, wine stains, shattered pearl necklaces, rain and burns, these elements are incorporated with Swarovski crystals supported by Swarovski, umbrellas structures
supported by Senz, pleatings and 3D printing structures, different techniques and crafts are elaborated into the designs of the collection.
Fear is the one theme that runs through the collection, interpreted into different stories through each individual looks. Ultimately, the collection is not about fear, it is about the desire to conquer fear.