Stretch leather's inventor, Jean-Claude Jitrois, grounds each of his collections on the knowledge he acquired during the eleven years he spent working as a psychologist before switching to design.
The AW23/24 collection by Jitrois is inspired by an ocean of identities that are fusing, clashing, coexisting, and interacting under the spotlight of a postmodern gaze.
La Maison Jitrois continues to work to provide the J3 Klub with the resources needed to develop new identities while preserving the ones they already have. This season, Jean-Claude Jitrois aimed to delve even further into the human mind than before to uncover the core motivations of each and every one of us, including every character flaw, newly discovered idealized obsession, and unspoken urge.
The punk movement in 1980s London was a source of inspiration for Jean-Claude Jitrois; it was a time when politics and unabashed self-expression were expressed through fashion. But the clothes are all infused with the Parisian polish Jitrois is so well known for, in line with the house's ethos. Clean, tailored lines are created by channeling effortless disorder to produce sleek, lethal shapes made of discordant color injections and eclectic layering. The house's signature bright black was contrasted this season with fresh hues like Electric Orange, Neige Snow, Citrine Yellow, and an eye-catching turquoise. Then bolder, more angular forms came into the frame, cinching and maximizing in some areas while agglomerating in others. The juxtaposition of luxury and anarchy in this piece encourages the wearer to explore and embrace all of their personas.
In AW23/24, the exposed zip, a Jitrois staple, has found new residences and functions, giving the wearer even more control over their appearance. Jackets can be opened at the waist or sleeves, dresses from the neck to the hem, and some pieces all-over, to conceal or reveal however much skin is needed for the occasion. This textural union of cutting-edge hardware with flesh and artificial skin produces a modern effect that exudes universal sexuality. The skin can also be painted with designs using fine leather embroidery, sometimes using bold motifs within mesh or intricately cut forms. Through the unavoidable means of fine couture, the pieces subtly reference the historical rebellion of tattoos.
As always, Jean-Claude Jitrois searches to stimulate every sense, so explored new textures this season: introducing Mongolian Lamb trims and revisiting fringing in unexpected places, beside their smooth counterparts. The gentle, nonuniform nature of Mongolian Lamb makes a refreshing contrast to the precision and permanence of leather, creating chic, versatile coats for parties and for everyday. While sometimes making a nod to contemporary street style, they retain the house’s instantly recognisable silhouette.
The leather fringing, another staple of the #Jitrois oeuvre, has taken new form on the leg. Shown at its most dynamic and alluring in movement, the material is exhibited in both seductive black and the shocking new Citrine Yellow, on the shin as a form of gaiter. They afford further drama to the looks, with an almost playful and versatile edge to them. Finally, Jitrois offer new shapes in sumptuous suede, with military-style hooded jackets: striking to the eye, but impossibly soft to the touch.
For the AW23/24 collection, Jitrois invites their J3 Klub to celebrate themselves like never
before: every aspect of the body and the mind, letting identities run riot. Having presented such
a multifaceted collection, rich in new ideas, it’s clear the house is entering a new era of structure,
texture, glamour, and sexuality.