Neo-Swiss luxury jewelry and watch atelier exclusively debuts at Abu Dhabi Art Fair
Fueled by obsessive creativity and a passion for craftsmanship in all its facets, the newly founded Charles Zuber is revealing today its first high jewelry line POMANDER and luxury watch collection PERFOS. These two major collections are unveiled at Abu Dhabi Art Fair as the Founder’s Edition, inspired by the legacy of the founder. The spirit of Charles Zuber, master Swiss jeweller will be rekindled through an immersive experience at Abu Dhabi Art Week on November 17th.
PERFOS 39mm baguette cut diamond bezel
The PERFOS watch, designed by Eric Giroud. Underneath its apparent simplicity, the Perfos is in fact very complex.
With understated elegance, Perfos asserts the fundamentals of traditional watchmaking whilst adding a contemporary touch.
Designed by the famous Swiss designer Eric Giroud, the Perfos watch epitomizes the guiding values of Charles Zuber.
It bears an extremely complex dial, with a luminous harmony radiating from the rays of a stylized sun, which is a challenge of craftsmanship and engineering.
The meticulous workmanship “chocolate tablet” design bracelet, culminating in the brushed satin finish, is only achievable by hand.
Powering Perfos, we have the Caliber 01, an exclusive micro-rotor form movement, perfectly matching the case interior.
Among the subtleties of Perfos, the sophistication of its dial is one of the most distinctive – and uncompromising – expressions of elegance. Whether on a black background with gray rhodium-plated indexes, or on a white background with ebony indexes like piano keys, the extreme precision it takes to create each triangular groove from a mother blank, a first dial base upon which a second plate, delicately openworked by laser, is then placed. Each opening coincides perfectly with each of the sixty indexes. How the infinitely small can reveal absolute mastery built on decades of practice! The dial is galvanized, a technique that relies on a pertinent choice of steel. The action of coating the metal with a layer of zinc protects it from corrosion whilst creating an iconic effect with flamboyant tones.
Charles Zuber is about refusing to compromise, through the design of a form movement caliber that hugs the rounded corners of the square case. Automatically wound with a bidirectional oscillating weight - micro rotor, this three-hand caliber with 164 components and 33 jewels lends itself to future developments and the addition of complications. Decorated and rhodium-plated according to the purest practices of a watchmaking industry proud of its fundamentals, its blued screws as well as other selected details underline the sunray patterns worked on its surfaces that are not visible to the eye.
Collection: Perfos Reference: 3901011 Case shape: Octagonal Movement: Caliber 01, mechanical with automatic winding Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds Power reserve: 38 hours Case: Steel Bracelet: Steel Buckle: Folding clasp Dial: Galvanic and mirror polished indexes Size: 39 x 39 mm Thickness: 9 mm Water resistance: 30 m
Charles Zuber’s haute jewelry is enriched by a fine collection that takes the ancient aesthetic codes of the pomander and reinterprets them with a resolutely contemporary visual and textural language. The pomander fuses the mastery of jewelry techniques with evocative stones in a culmination of beautiful and unique designs. With its iconic ogive shape, delicately held by a protective mesh of threads so fine they seem to disappear, Pomander brings together the rarest materials, like angel’s hair crystal with its threads of finest red-gold rutiles that shimmer with an ethereal quality. Charles Zuber explores an infinite spectrum of variations of Pomander: rings, necklaces, earrings, studs, and studded cuffs.
The name Pomander came naturally – in it everything this object inspires is encompassed. With its iconic roudly tapered end, delicately held by a protective mesh of threads so fine they seem to disappear, Pomander sets the light free to play off its precious and semi-precious stones.
As they explore the infinite possibilities for jewelry creation, the Charles Zuber atelier applied the art of spider setting to the best practices of high jewelry, eschewing any form of bonding. Thus, a precious metal claw discreetly surrounds the polished surfaces, bringing out the distinctive shape and depth of this generous dome cut from lavender or black jade, violet amethyst, or from turquoise with lagoon reflections.
The innovation of the Pomander collection lies in the use of rutilated quartz, also called angel’s hair crystal, a rare material in haute Jewellery. True to the bold spirit of the designer Charles Zuber, the brand rose to the challenge, capturing the stone’s fascinating aesthetic and almost organic texture.
Long considered a worthless mineral, rutilated quartz is like a diamond in the rough. Indeed, towards the middle of the 20th century, designers and collectors began to appreciate the ethereal beauty of rutilated quartz, so named because of the inclusions that take on reddish and golden tones (hence ‘rutile’); because they evoke shimmering strands of golden hair, this stone is often referred to as angel’s hair quartz. Symbolically, angel’s hair quartz is connected to the higher realms. It is said to be a stone of celestial power, uplifting and illuminating for the soul, amplifying intention and enhancing intuition.
Pomander is for the elegant and subtle woman of today. Inspired by ancient jewelry, it links past and present, a value dear to Charles Zuber. It's a collection promising an infinite number of possibilities: rings, necklaces, earrings, studs, studded cuffs...
Under the creative direction of Vincent Perego, Charles Zuber gives shape to this ancient talisman-like object filled with symbolism and emotion.
Pomander brings together the rarest materials, like angel’s hair crystal with its threads of finest red-gold rutiles that shimmer with an ethereal quality.
The spider setting technique permits the use of precious metal to secure the ogive gemstone carved from lavender or black jade, purple or green amethyst, or lagoon turquoise.
Held by a protective mesh of threads so fine they seem to disappear, Pomander sets the light free to play off its precious and semi-precious stones.